Trailblazing Women Winemakers of Washington: A New Era in the Columbia Gorge AVA

Nestled along the dramatic contours of the Columbia River, where the volcanic soils and ever-changing microclimates converge, lies one of the Pacific Northwest’s best-kept secrets: the Columbia Gorge AVA. In this picturesque region spanning south-central Washington and north-central Oregon, a group of pioneering women winemakers are reshaping the narrative of American wine. With innovation, passion, and sustainability as their guiding principles, they are elevating the Columbia Gorge AVA to global acclaim, one glass at a time. 

A Tapestry of Terroir 

The Columbia Gorge is a land of breathtaking contrasts. Stretching 40 miles along the Columbia River, the appellation boasts a diversity of climates and landscapes unmatched in most wine-growing regions. To the west, maritime influences and ample rainfall create ideal conditions for cool-climate varietals like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Travel eastward, and the landscape transitions to arid, sun-drenched slopes suited for Syrah and Tempranillo. 

This unique terroir is not lost on Anaïs Mera of AniChe Cellars, whose wines celebrate the land’s diversity and her family’s heritage. “The Gorge is invigorating,” she says. “Farming here is a reminder of our connection to the earth’s cycles. There is no mastery of nature; we are part of it.” 

The winemakers of the Gorge embrace this diversity with fervor, crafting wines that reflect both the character of the land and their own artistic visions. As Shannon Elizabeth-Head of Estelbrook Farms & Vineyard notes, “Winemaking here is never static. The microclimates, the soil—everything changes, and that’s where the magic happens.” 

Women Leading the Charge 

Women have been at the forefront of the Columbia Gorge’s wine renaissance, bringing fresh perspectives and collaborative energy to an industry long dominated by tradition. Winemakers like Anaïs Mera, Bethany Kimmel of Color Collector, and Julia Bailey of Loop de Loop are not just crafting exceptional wines—they are redefining what it means to be a winemaker in this dynamic region. 

For Lisa Wiseman, founder of Ridge of Wonders, the Gorge’s potential lies in its experimental spirit. “We get to push boundaries here,” she explains. “From sparkling wines to carbonic Pinot Noir, it’s an incredible playground for creativity.” Her approach reflects the collaborative ethos of the region, where women winemakers often share resources and knowledge to elevate the community as a whole. 

Bethany Kimmel, who focuses exclusively on Gamay at Color Collector, views her work as a marriage of art and agriculture. “The Gorge is a place where fire, water, air, and earth all meet,” she says. “It’s dynamic and energy-rich, and that energy flows into everything we do.” Her innovative foray into Gamay-based vermouth highlights the adaptability of the region’s winemakers to the challenges posed by climate change. 

Sustainability as a Pillar 

The women of the Columbia Gorge AVA are united by a commitment to sustainability. At Estelbrook Farms & Vineyard, Shannon Elizabeth-Head champions regenerative farming, earning certifications in organic and biodynamic practices. “We’re farming the soil first,” she says. “Healthy soil creates the best wine and supports long-term vitality.” 

Julia Bailey echoes this ethos at Loop de Loop, where regenerative practices are transforming her vineyard. “We’re farming the soil food web,” she explains. “Already, we’re seeing changes in wine quality, and it’s only the beginning.” This holistic approach extends to her winemaking philosophy, which prioritizes minimal intervention to let the vineyard speak through the wine. 

Overcoming Challenges, Building Community 

While these women are breaking barriers, the journey hasn’t been without challenges. From navigating entrenched industry biases to balancing the demands of winemaking with family life, they have faced their share of obstacles. 

Anaïs Mera recounts how her wines have been overlooked by industry influencers due to her gender, yet she views her role as a woman winemaker as a strength. “Womxn have better sensory connections to our memory via our olfactory system,” she notes. “It’s a superpower that adds nuance and complexity to our wines.” 

For Julia Bailey, the camaraderie among women winemakers has been a source of inspiration. “We’re no longer the only women in the cellar,” she says. “Having a network of talented, supportive peers has made all the difference.” 

The Future of the Columbia Gorge AVA 

As the Columbia Gorge AVA continues to mature, these trailblazing winemakers are optimistic about its future. Lisa Wiseman envisions a region known for its sub-AVAs, where distinct microclimates and soil types are celebrated. 

Bethany Kimmel shares this excitement, noting that the Gorge’s diversity and energy will continue to attract adventurous winemakers. “This place is built for exploration,” she says. “Every wine tells a story of integrity and place.” 

For visitors, the Columbia Gorge AVA offers more than just exceptional wines. It’s an invitation to experience a region where natural beauty meets human ingenuity. Whether sipping Anaïs Mera’s Wachau-style Grüner Veltliner, savoring Bethany Kimmel’s nuanced Gamay, or exploring Lisa Wiseman’s sparkling piquette, each glass captures the spirit of this remarkable place. 

Raising a Glass to Innovation 

In a region defined by its contrasts, the women winemakers of the Columbia Gorge AVA are crafting a new chapter in American viticulture. Their wines reflect not only the land’s extraordinary diversity but also the courage, creativity, and resilience of the women who make them. As the world takes notice, these trailblazers remind us that the Columbia Gorge is more than a place—it’s a movement. 

For wine enthusiasts seeking something truly unique, the Columbia Gorge AVA awaits—a region where every sip is a story and every vintage is a testament to the power of passion and place. 

 

Teddi Fuller / LUSHINGTON WINES
A one-woman show, from farming the grapes to making the wine and designing the labels, Teddi gave birth to Lushington in 2021.
Working as the assistant winemaker for Domaine Pouillon since 2018, she made her mark here in the Gorge, keeping the winery youthful, by adding her skill set to their Pèt Nat and skin contact wines–wines that she makes under her Lushington label as well.
Teddi tends the Hi Hill Vineyard in Lyle, Washington, sitting at 1888 feet in elevation, sourcing her grapes from the organic vineyard that is inhabited by Old Vine Pinot Noir and Riesling.
Her newest releases include Sparkling Blanc de Noirs, Rosè, a whole cluster Pinot Noir and Piquette, made from Riesling.
You can find her wines at various pop-ups, and can purchase them at many of our local markets and restaurants here in the Gorge.

Lisa Wiseman / RIDGE OF WONDERS
A limited production, family-run winery, Ridge of Wonders made its first vintage in 2016, producing 60 cases of Rosè, in the garage-turned-wine-cellar in Husum, Washington.
Lisa began sourcing her wine grapes from the Columbia Gorge AVA and wanted to make the wine close to that source. Her current releases include two Sparkling wines, a Rosè, Carbonic Pinot Noir, Syrah and Piquette.
Lisa has just embarked on a new adventure–setting up a Tasting Room on the patio at Inn of the White Salmon! Her wines are also available at many of our local markets/restaurants.

Anaïs Mera and Rachel Horn / ANICHE
Since 2009, this mother/daughter duo has been focusing on vintage and terroir, making unique varietal blends! Deeply entrenched in the community, this is absolutely a family affair, with everyone involved in some way.

Two years ago, AniChe purchased 25 acres of vines (and manages 30 acres!) with plans to produce 90 percent of their wines from their dry farmed Estate grapes in 2024. These ladies make a myriad of fun and interesting wines, including Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Grüer Veltliner and a Sparkling from Boushey vineyards, done in the traditional méthode champenoise.

While you can find some of these wines in and around the Gorge, AniChe has chosen to focus almost solely on their wine club for distribution.  The Tasting Room on Underwood Mountain is open Wednesday through Sunday.

Julia Bailey / LOOP DE LOOP WINES
Though Julia Bailey has been making wine since 2012, her first vintage on Underwood Mountain was in 2021, in a facility she owns with husband Scott Gulstine. Julia focuses on low-intervention winemaking and places an emphasis on sustainability and regenerative farming. Her Wallflower Project was created to make wines that are “experimental and fun”, but also makes and bottles Chardonnay, Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Noir and Syrah, to name only a few.

The Tasting Room on Underwood Mountain is open Friday through Sunday.

Kelly Johnson / TETRAHEDRON
Kelly grew up in Lyle, Washington and attended Washington State University, earning a degree in Biology, then moved to California to embark on a career in the wine industry. Working in the Napa Valley for 13 years, she eventually returned home to the Columbia Gorge and Tetrahedron was born. Past vintages include Chardonnay, Charbono, Syrah and Merlot.

There is a new tasting room coming in the Spring of 2025! Until the new site opens, there are special occasions for people to taste and purchase bottles with reservations–details are available on their website.

Bethany Kimmel / THE COLOR COLLECTOR
Bethany has been working with Oregon Gamay grapes since 2015, and says, here in the Pacific Northwest, the grape is “perfectly suited to ripen rich fruit flavors”, prompting her to plant and farm on her own property, 2000 feet in elevation, in White Salmon, Washington. Bethany sources Gamay from the Willamette Valley as well, making various expressions of the varietal–a traditional red, a still Rosè, a whole cluster carbonic and delicious Vermouth.

These very intentional and small production wines are available on her website or in many of the local spots around the Gorge, including her own, The Soča Wine Shop.

Shahnnen Elizabeth-Head / ESTELBROOK FARMS & VINEYARD
Cool-climate varieties are grown, and estate wines are made from the 86-acre property that sits above 2,000 feet elevation in Snowden Meadows, north of White Salmon.

Purchased in 2016, she is working to carefully rehabilitate the land, following conscientious agricultural and management principles as much as possible, and planted the first grape vines in 2018. The vineyard now has ten varieties across ten and a half acres. Estelbrook has Organic (CCOF), Demeter Biodynamic, and Regenerative Organic (ROC) certifications — only the eighth vineyard in the world to attain all three certifications.

Stay tuned, as the Farm Shop will include unique products produced on the farm, including wine, cider, honey, and various fruit preserves.

Emilie McKinney / Assistant winemaker Syncline Winery
Emilie went to high school on the central coast of California in Paso Robles, where she began to recognize the scope of the wine industry through friends and their family’s wineries. Bachelor’s degree in hand, in Wine and Viticulture from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, her first harvest job was in 2012 and she hasn’t missed one since!  Emilie has worked in Chile, New Zealand, and Australia as well. This year marks her 14th harvest.
Moving to Oregon in 2016, she worked in the Willamette Valley for nearly seven years. After working a harvest in Australia for Yangarra in 2018, she was reminded how much she loved Rhône varieties, and was hired by owner and winemaker James Mantone in 2022.

Abby Young / Assistant winemaker Hawkins Cellars
After studying Agriculture Education at Oregon State University, Abby began her winemaking journey by accident. Thinking she would be doing only vineyard work for the Summer, she applied at Hawkins Cellars two years ago. When that September rolled around, owner and winemaker, Thane Hawkins, prepared her for what was next. “I fell in love with the harvesting process on day one! Winemaking is a perfect balance of labor, science and industry. I feel stronger, wiser and more deeply connected to those in my community after every harvest season.”

Laura Brennan Bissell / INCONNU
Laura spent several years doing performance poetry and living in Barcelona, then took harvest internships in prestigious Northern California wineries, before launching Inconnu in 2013. Inspired by the beauty of the Gorge, Laura eventually made her way to Underwood, Washington, creating her new brand, Aitia Wines. She practices non-invasive winemaking and uses organically farmed grapes.