Julia Bailey: Crafting Art in the Columbia Gorge AVA

In the rolling hills of Underwood, Washington, just minutes from White Salmon, Julia Bailey is redefining what it means to be a winemaker in one of the most diverse and dynamic wine regions in the country—the Columbia Gorge AVA. Bailey’s winery, Loop de Loop, is as unique as the land it calls home, reflecting her passion for sustainable farming, bold experimentation, and the undeniable beauty of her surroundings.

“It’s incredibly dynamic here,” says Julia. “We have the ability to work with an amazing amount of varietals due to the multitude of microclimates here in the Gorge.” It’s a statement that captures her philosophy of embracing the land’s complexities and pushing boundaries to craft wines that tell a story of place, passion, and perseverance.

The Dynamic Columbia Gorge AVA

The Columbia Gorge AVA is a playground of microclimates and terroirs, offering a rich diversity of grape varietals and wine styles. For Julia, this versatility is both a challenge and an inspiration.

“We are in a subalpine climate here at our vineyard, which allows us to grow cool climate varietals like Gruner Veltliner, Riesling, and Pinot Noir,” she explains. “Every mile you go east from here, you lose an inch of annual rainfall and gain a tremendous amount of heat. This allows us to purchase warmer climate varietals from our farming partners just 15-25 miles down the river from us.”

This geographical diversity is bolstered by the Columbia River, which moderates temperatures and provides a natural barrier against frost. “The river brings cool winds from the coast,” Julia says, “and the winds can be ripping fast, which is why we’re the nation’s windsurfing capital. The constant winds make for thick skins on the grapes. Thicker skins mean more pronounced wines, and they also bring an energy to the wines you can’t find elsewhere.”

A Vision for the Future

Julia is optimistic about what the Columbia Gorge AVA will look like in the coming decade. “I believe we will see more organically farmed grapes, which is very encouraging,” she says. “I’m looking forward to seeing more defined sub-AVAs within the Gorge. There are some truly special microclimates and soils here that deserve to be recognized for their unique attributes.”

She points to the thoughtful planting by growers who blend experience with youthful energy as a sign of the region’s growing reputation for world-class wines. “It’s an exciting time to be here,” she says.

A Winemaker’s Palette

At Loop de Loop, Julia works with an astonishing array of varietals, both from her own vineyard and from trusted farming partners. “We grow Pinot Noir, Gruner Veltliner, Riesling, Chardonnay, and a very little bit of Pinot Blanc,” she says. “We also make Dolcetto, Blaufränkisch, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Tempranillo, Tannat, and Gamay Noir.”

This diversity reflects her commitment to the community and the land. “When we partner with farmers, we tend to work with them in whatever they grow—investing in our relationship with the vineyard over the varietal,” she explains. This philosophy has allowed her to create a portfolio of wines that are as varied as the landscape of the Columbia Gorge itself.

Community and Kinship

As a woman winemaker, Julia has faced her share of challenges, though she’s quick to focus on the progress the industry has made. “At my first winery job, I was told cute girls just distract the boys in the cellar and that I should work in the tasting room,” she recalls. “That kind of sums it up.”

But Julia has seen the tides shift over her two decades in the wine industry. “A young woman entering this industry now will have so many more role models and the ability to NOT always be the only woman in the cellar,” she says. She credits pioneers like Patty Green for paving the way and highlights the sense of community she feels among other women winemakers in the Gorge. “It’s wonderful having so many other women winemakers nearby. I feel a real sense of community and kinship with many of them.”

The Soul of the Winemaker

Julia believes that wine reflects the person who makes it.

“Each wine has a sense of the person who made it within it,” Julia says. “In the past, when wines were made largely by one gender, the world of wine was missing so much of the larger story there is to tell in an individual vintage.”

Her approach to winemaking is deeply personal and intuitive. “In the cellar, my job is to care for these wines, to listen to them—giving them what they need but never more,” she explains. “I never want to manipulate a wine into being something in particular. I want to be a part of finding the beauty in the wine and giving it space to blossom.”

Regenerative Farming and Sustainable Practices

At the heart of Julia’s winemaking is their commitment to regenerative farming. “We farm the soil food web first,” she says, describing her efforts to revive the vineyard’s 23-year-old vines. “We’re only on year five of farming our vineyard, and I’m already seeing beautiful changes in the wine quality.” Julia’s husband, Scott Gulstine, is primarily responsible for the vineyard.

This commitment extends to her cellar practices as well. Julia is mindful of letting the vineyard speak through the wine, creating a product that is both authentic and sustainable.

The Essence of the Columbia Gorge AVA

So, what should people expect from wines made in the Columbia Gorge AVA? Julia sums it up in one word: “Diversity.”

From the cool-climate Rieslings and Pinot Noirs grown in her subalpine vineyard to the warm-climate Syrahs and Tempranillos sourced from nearby farms, Julia’s wines embody the energy and variety of the region.

“It’s incredibly beautiful here,” she says, her voice tinged with the awe of someone who truly loves where she lives and works. And it’s this love, paired with her skill and vision, that makes Loop de Loop a shining example of what the Columbia Gorge AVA has to offer.

Julia Bailey isn’t just making wine; she’s crafting a story—one that celebrates the land, the people, and the vibrant diversity of the Columbia Gorge AVA. For those lucky enough to visit Loop de Loop in Underwood, Washington, that story is poured into every glass.