The Creative Spirit of Laura Brennan Bissell: A Champion of Terroir at Inconnu and Aitia Wines

The Columbia Gorge AVA is a land of contrasts—ancient volcanic soils meet the relentless energy of wind and weather to create a winemaking region unlike any other. Laura Brennan Bissell, owner and winemaker of Inconnu and Aitia Wines, is a visionary whose work reflects both the beauty and challenges of this unique area. With an approach that is both bold and thoughtful, Laura crafts wines that are rooted in the essence of their origin while pushing the boundaries of creativity.

A Love for Underwood’s Volcanic Terroir

For Laura, the Columbia Gorge AVA represents an extraordinary opportunity to engage with nature at its most dynamic. “I find the climate both beautiful and challenging,” she says. “I am 100% dedicated to Underwood, and its volcanic terroir, tenacious winds, intense weather patterns, and in my case, elevation. Underwood is a moody climactic place… it is everything you would expect from an ancient volcano, piled upon by other volcanos.”

This deep connection to Underwood’s volcanic landscape is evident in every aspect of her work. Laura’s wines capture the untamed spirit of the region while showcasing the complexity and depth that such a terroir can produce.

A Vision for the Future

Laura’s dedication to the Columbia Gorge extends beyond her own vineyards. She envisions a future where the region’s complexity is recognized and celebrated through the establishment of sub-appellations. “Hopefully it will be divided into sub-appellations to better represent the complexity and variation of weather and terroir,” she says. This move, she believes, would allow the region’s diverse microclimates and soil types to shine even more brightly on the global stage.

A Palette of Varietals

At Inconnu and Aitia Wines, Laura works with an impressive range of varietals, including Albariño, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Tempranillo, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and—soon—Gamay. Her ability to balance such diversity while maintaining a clear identity for her wines speaks to her skill and dedication as a winemaker.

Her approach is rooted in simplicity and intentionality. “I think of myself as a quiet winemaker… I like to keep things simple, clean, and concise,” Laura explains. “I proceed very lightly, and when a ‘problem’ arises, action begins to solve it. I frequently tell people I’m like an Ent… most of the time I move very slowly, my head in the clouds… enjoying the little things, seldom rushed by anything… but when action is demanded, I waste no time.”

Overcoming Challenges

Laura’s journey as a winemaker has not been without its challenges, particularly as a woman in a traditionally male-dominated industry. “I suppose it’s kind of like being a woman winemaker anywhere,” she reflects. “My interactions here are more farming related; frequently I encounter a large amount of doubt, condescension, and head patting in the beginning… and a little sexual harassment here and there. And then… eventually people start seeing what’s really going on.”

Despite these obstacles, Laura sees her role as a woman winemaker as a source of strength. “I sincerely believe that women, by nature, are more in tune with their senses,” she shares. “I feel that being a mother in particular gives me a deeper sense of empathy with nature, and has deepened my relationship with virtue, in that their faces looking up at me make every decision even more important… in particular with farming.”

Laura also views being underestimated as a unique advantage. “I think being underestimated serves as a superpower, when one is able to have their actions and decisions not dictated by the opinions of others,” she notes.

A Commitment to Sustainable Farming

One of the most exciting aspects of the Columbia Gorge AVA for Laura is its commitment to sustainable farming practices. “I am excited about the number of vineyards that are organic, dry farmed (or close to), and practicing no-till/light-till farming here,” she says. “It really feels like an outlier region in that regard. I will personally continue to work to spread this message, and compassionately help other farmers make this shift.”

Her passion for sustainable practices extends beyond her own vineyards, as she actively encourages others in the region to adopt methods that are both environmentally friendly and beneficial to the land.

Experiencing Laura’s Wines

For those looking to experience the magic of Laura Brennan Bissell’s winemaking, Inconnu and Aitia Wines offer a journey into the heart of the Columbia Gorge AVA. Each bottle is a reflection of Laura’s dedication to her craft, her respect for the land, and her vision for the future.

Whether you are a wine enthusiast or simply someone who appreciates the beauty of a well-crafted story, Laura’s work is an invitation to explore the Columbia Gorge through a lens of creativity, sustainability, and resilience. As Laura herself continues to champion the potential of this extraordinary region, her wines stand as a testament to the power of passion and place.